Tokyo Isn’t a City? How Japan Is Really Organised

When we think of Japan, most people imagine Tokyo as the centre of it all—a gigantic, bustling capital city filled with neon lights, skyscrapers, and sushi trains. But here’s a surprising fact: Tokyo isn’t technically a city. And it’s just one part of a complex and fascinating administrative system that reflects Japan’s unique geography, history, and politics.

Let’s explore how Japan is really organised—and why understanding this structure is key for travellers, expats, and culture lovers alike.

TOKYO isn't a city?!

The Four Types of Prefectures in Japan

Japan is divided into 47 administrative regions, commonly referred to as “prefectures” in English. But they’re not all called prefectures in Japanese. Instead, they fall under four distinct categories:

• To (都) — Metropolis: Only one—Tokyo (東京都)

• Dō (道) — Circuit: Only one—Hokkaidō (北海道)

• Fu (府) — Urban prefectures: Two—Osaka (大阪府) and Kyoto (京都府)

• Ken (県) — Standard prefectures: 43 others, like Nara, Fukuoka, and Hiroshima

Each of these classifications has historical roots. For instance, “fu” was used for major cities during the Meiji period, and “dō” reflects Hokkaidō’s historical frontier identity.

So, even though we say Japan has “47 prefectures,” they’re not all the same type, and that affects how they're managed.

Tokyo: The One and Only Metropolis

Let’s start with the big one—Tokyo.

Tokyo is not a city. That may sound odd, especially when maps label it as such, but administratively, it’s a metropolitan prefecture (Tokyo-to). It combines features of both a city and a prefecture.

Instead of one large city government, Tokyo is made up of:

• 23 special wards (tokubetsu-ku)—each like its own city, with a mayor, city council, and local services

• 26 cities, 5 towns, and 8 villages in western Tokyo

• Several remote islands, including the Ogasawara Islands

So when someone says “I live in Tokyo,” they could mean Shinjuku (a ward), Hachioji (a city), or even a tiny island several hours away by boat.

This setup allows Tokyo to manage a massive population while still giving autonomy to local communities. It’s efficient, but it’s also what makes Tokyo so different from every other place in Japan.

What Is a Prefecture, Really?

The word “prefecture” is a bit of an approximation. It’s borrowed from French administrative terminology and doesn’t quite capture the local nuances of Japan’s system.

In practice, a prefecture functions like a state or province. Each one has:

• A governor elected by the people

• A local legislature

• Jurisdiction over public health, education, infrastructure, and more

But Japan remains a highly centralised country, so the national government in Tokyo still plays a big role in setting standards and budgets. Still, local prefectures often take pride in their unique culture, dialects, and even mascots!

For example:

• Kyoto-fu is known for its temples, geisha, and rich cultural heritage.

• Osaka-fu embraces a vibrant, food-loving personality.

• Nara-ken preserves ancient shrines and friendly deer.

  
  

Cities, Towns, and Villages

Within prefectures, the next level of division is municipalities. These include:

• Shi (市) — Cities

• Machi or Chō (町) — Towns

• Mura or Son (村) — Villages

Cities are larger and have more administrative responsibilities. Once a town grows past 50,000 residents and meets other criteria, it can become a shi. Towns and villages are typically more rural and often grouped under a district (gun, 郡) for broader administrative tasks.

There are also designated cities (seirei shitei toshi)—like Osaka, Kyoto, and Yokohama—which are so large they’re subdivided into wards (ku), similar to Tokyo’s system but with less autonomy.

For example:

• Osaka-shi has 24 wards, including Namba, Tennoji, and Kita.

• Kyoto-shi has 11 wards, such as Higashiyama and Arashiyama.

These wards handle things like waste collection, local libraries, and schools—very practical, everyday services that give each neighbourhood a distinct identity.

What Makes Tokyo’s Wards So Special?

Only Tokyo’s 23 wards are classified as “special wards” (tokubetsu-ku). This means they have a degree of independence not found in wards elsewhere. For instance:

• Each ward elects its own mayor and council

• They provide many city-like services independently

• They are recognised almost like cities by the Japanese government

It’s a setup unique to Tokyo, created after World War II when the old Tokyo City was dissolved. This system allows the central Tokyo government to oversee the whole area while letting each ward cater to local needs.

If you’ve ever wondered why Shinjuku or Shibuya feel like separate cities, it’s because, administratively, they practically are.

Hokkaidō: The Lone Circuit

Now let’s talk about the “dō” of Hokkaidō. This northernmost island of Japan has the size of a small country and a colder, more rugged climate. The word “dō” (道) means “circuit” and has roots in the old provincial system of Japan.

To make things easier to govern, Hokkaidō is further divided into subprefectures (shichō, 支庁), a feature not seen in other parts of Japan. These subprefectures act as regional administrative centres due to the island’s vast size.

Why Does This Matter for Travellers?

Understanding how Japan is divided helps you:

• Plan your trips better: Knowing which area you’re in helps you choose transport passes, like the Kansai Thru Pass or JR regional passes.

• Appreciate regional culture: Each prefecture has its own festivals, foods, dialects, and traditions.

• Book accommodation smartly: For instance, booking in "Tokyo" could mean a ward or a far-off suburb, so check carefully.

And if you're coming on one of my tours, this structure becomes very real. When I guide visitors through Kyoto’s wards or explore Nara-ken's spiritual heritage, we’re walking through not just space—but layers of local history and identity.

How japan is organised: A Country of Many Layers

Japan may look like one seamless nation, but it’s actually a mosaic of regions, each with its own character. From the snowy circuits of Hokkaidō to the spiritual heart of Nara, and the metropolitan complexity of Tokyo—every part tells a different story.

So next time you check into your hotel in Osaka-shi, visit a Zen temple in Kyoto-fu, or cross the gates at Fushimi Inari in Kyoto’s Fushimi Ward, take a moment to appreciate the intricate system behind the scenes.

It’s more than just geography. It’s a reflection of Japan’s careful balance between unity and local pride.

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