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  • Hozenji Temple: Osaka’s Hidden Sanctuary of Fire and Prayer

    In the heart of Osaka’s lively Namba district, just steps away from the dazzling chaos of Dotonbori, lies a place so quiet and sacred that you might miss it if you’re not paying attention. Tucked away in a narrow alleyway, covered in moss and mystery, Hozenji Temple is one of Osaka’s most fascinating spiritual enclaves. While most travellers come to Osaka for food and fun, few realise that this city also holds deep spiritual traditions—some still performed in the shadows of neon lights. One of the most powerful of these is the Goma fire ritual , held monthly at Hozenji Temple. It’s an intimate, ancient ceremony that draws locals and seekers looking for purification, protection, and connection. This is the story of a hidden temple, a fierce protector deity, and a sacred fire that burns away more than just wood. Hozenji Temple | Goma Ceremony 🔥 The Monthly Goma Fire Ritual Every 28th of the month , monks gather at Hozenji Temple to perform the Goma (護摩) ceremony , an esoteric Buddhist ritual where wooden prayer sticks called gomagi are burned in a sacred fire. The flames are believed to purify negative energies , grant wishes , and remove obstacles from one’s path. Chanting sutras while tossing sticks into the fire, the monks call upon a powerful spiritual force— Fudō Myōō , the Immovable Wisdom King—whose presence watches over the temple. This fire isn’t just for show. It’s symbolic of internal transformation . Burning away desires, ignorance, fear, and attachments, the fire opens a channel between this world and the spiritual one, where the gods might hear and respond. 🛕 Meet Fudō Myōō: The Fierce Guardian of Hozenji Temple At the center of Hozenji Temple stands a statue unlike any other in Japan: a moss-covered effigy of Fudō Myōō (不動明王) , one of the most important figures in esoteric Buddhism. With a scowling face, flaming backdrop, a sword in one hand, and a rope in the other, Fudō Myōō might look terrifying—but his wrath is born of compassion. He’s not a god in the Shinto sense, but a Wisdom King (Myōō) —a fierce manifestation of Dainichi Nyorai , the cosmic Buddha. His job is to destroy delusions, bind evil, and push people toward spiritual growth, even if it means dragging them kicking and screaming toward enlightenment. The moss that covers his body wasn’t part of the original design. Over the years, visitors began pouring water over him while praying, a gesture of purification and offering. The constant moisture encouraged moss to grow, and today, his form is entirely shrouded in green, adding to the mystical charm of the place. 🌙 The Atmosphere: Fire, Chanting, and Stillness If you attend the ceremony at night, you'll find yourself surrounded by flickering shadows, the crackling of flames, and the rhythmic chanting of monks. The atmosphere is electric—and yet profoundly peaceful. Visitors write their wishes on gomagi sticks and hand them to the monks, who feed them into the fire as prayers rise with the smoke. It's a moment that feels both private and communal, ancient and alive. Even outside of the ritual, Hozenji Temple is a quiet retreat from the surrounding chaos. Its cobblestone alley and dim lanterns transport you to a different era. Here, time seems to move differently. Slower. Deeper. 🍶 Beyond the Temple: The Soul of Osaka’s Backstreets Step outside the temple and you’re immediately back in Osaka’s vibrant chaos—but if you know where to look, the magic continues. The area around Hozenji is known as Hozenji Yokocho , a narrow alley lined with traditional restaurants, izakaya, and tachinomi (standing bars). This is where Osaka’s soul truly lives: not in tourist spots, but in lantern-lit corners , backstreet bars where regulars joke with the owners, and izakaya where the menus are handwritten and the flavours unforgettable. These places aren’t in guidebooks—and that's exactly why they’re worth discovering. 🧭 Why You Need a Guide for Places Like This You might walk past Hozenji Temple and never realise what you’ve missed. You might even attend the fire ritual and leave without understanding its meaning. That’s the thing with Japan: so much is left unsaid , steeped in layers of symbolism and custom. Having a guide can completely transform the experience. I don’t just bring people to Hozenji—I explain the deeper stories, the meanings behind the flames, and the fierce love of Fudō Myōō. I help travellers write their wishes, understand their significance, and observe rituals with respect and awareness. It’s not just about seeing Japan. It’s about feeling it . ✨ A Hidden Gem That Stays With You Among all the places I bring guests in Osaka, Hozenji Temple is one of the most memorable . It’s small, unassuming, and yet deeply powerful. People often arrive thinking it’s just a nice photo spot—but they leave with something more. A quiet reflection. A moment of inner peace. A story they didn’t expect. In a country where beauty often whispers instead of shouting, Hozenji Temple teaches us to listen . To be still. To connect. 🦝 Want to Discover Osaka's Hidden Side? If this story resonated with you, imagine experiencing it in person , with someone who knows where to go, what to look for, and how to connect it all to the broader picture of Japanese culture and spirituality. Join one of my walking tours in Osaka and explore temples like Hozenji, taste local street food, sip sake in secret izakaya, and hear stories that don’t show up in any travel app. 🦝 This is just one of the tales from Tanuki Stories 📩 Want to live it with me? Send me a message or visit www.tanukistories.jp and let’s explore together!

  • Expo 2025 Osaka: A Journey from the Eiffel Tower to Japan’s Grand Vision

    The idea behind the modern World Expo dates back to France in the late 18th century, when exhibitions showcased the local industry's wonders. By 1855 , the first official Exposition Universelle took place in Paris, marking the beginning of a new era in global cooperation. The 1889 Paris Expo gave the world the Eiffel Tower—a stunning symbol of modernity. From showcasing art and innovation to promoting international diplomacy , the World Expo has grown into a platform where countries imagine the future. And now, this spirit continues with Expo 2025 Osaka . OSAKA EXPO 2025 🚀 Welcome to Expo 2025 Osaka: Designing Future Society for Our Lives Running from April 13 to October 13, 2025 , E xpo 2025 Osaka is more than a fair—it’s a bold vision of what society can become. 🧬 Theme and Concept The official theme is: “Designing Future Society for Our Lives” , broken into three key subthemes: Saving Lives (health, biotechnology) Empowering Lives (technology, inclusion) Connecting Lives (sustainability, partnerships) Expo 2025 Osaka positions itself as a “People’s Living Lab” , using the event as a large-scale experiment in social, environmental, and technological transformation. 📍 Location: Yumeshima Island, Osaka The site of E xpo 2025 Osaka is Yumeshima , an artificial island in Osaka Bay. The centre of the venue is the Grand Ring , a massive wooden circular structure 2 km long and 20 m high. This symbolic design embodies harmony and connection among people, countries, and ideas. 🇮🇹 Italy’s Contribution to Expo 2025 Osaka The Italian Pavilion , themed "Art Regenerates Life" , brings Italy’s creativity and sustainability to the forefront. Highlights: Architectural Design : Inspired by Renaissance ideals—includes a piazza, garden, portico, and theatre. Cultural Assets : Vatican treasures like Caravaggio’s “The Deposition” , the Farnese Atlas , and Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus . Daily Performances : Held every evening at 6 PM. Business Diplomacy : Italian Trade Agency and Confindustria support B2B initiatives tied to Made in Italy. The pavilion was inaugurated by Deputy PM Antonio Tajani , Commissioner Mario Vattani , and religious and cultural dignitaries in a powerful celebration of Italian influence in Asia. 🇫🇷 France’s Legacy at the World Expo France, which introduced the Eiffel Tower during the 1889 Expo , returns to expo 2025 Osaka to once again share its contributions to innovation and global design. Though details of the French Pavilion remain under wraps, France’s historical role makes it one of the most anticipated experiences at the fair. 🎟 Tickets for Expo 2025 Osaka: Where and How to Get Them Available via Klook and other platforms (see my promo codes): Ticket Type Description 1-Day Pass General entry on any valid day Weekday Ticket Discounted entry on non-holiday weekdays Evening Ticket Entry after 4 PM Multi-Day Pass Access over multiple days You’ll need to register for an ExpoID , which allows you to: Link tickets to your personal ID Reserve pavilion entry slots Enter lotteries 2 months or 7 days in advance 👉 Book easily on Klook to combine Expo tickets with travel passes, hotel discounts, or local tours. 🛫 Getting to Expo 2025 Osaka and Planning Your Visit Transportation Tips Yumeshima is accessible by subway and shuttle buses. Use the Yumeshima Line or transit from Namba , Tennoji , or Umeda in ~30–40 minutes. Buy a Kansai Pass or ICOCA card via Klook before your trip. Accommodation Suggestions Book early and stay in central Osaka: Namba – nightlife, street food, and convenience Umeda – shopping and luxury hotels Tennoji – temples and family-friendly Shin-Osaka – for Shinkansen travellers 🎨 What to See at Expo 2025 Osaka Must-See Pavilions Italy : daily shows, Renaissance design, and sacred art Japan : futuristic biotech and AI technology USA : lunar rock exhibits and space-themed tech Ukraine : human stories of war and resilience UAE, China, South Korea : ambitious tech and climate showcases Attractions Flying cars and autonomous transport Hello Kitty and Gundam-themed installations Blue Ocean Dome and relaxation zones 🛍 Travel Essentials & Klook Affiliate Tools You can help your readers and earn affiliate commissions by recommending: Expo tickets on Klook Transit passes (Osaka subway, Kansai Pass) Accommodation deals Day trips from Osaka (Nara, Kyoto, Kobe) Be sure to include strong call-to-actions like:🔗 Book Expo 2025 Osaka tickets now with Klook and start your journey into the future! 🖌 From Expo 1889 to Today: A Personal Connection Did you know that I know a wonderful calligraphy shop here in Japan that took part in the 1889 Paris Expo —the same one where the Eiffel Tower was unveiled? This historical little shop still operates today, preserving centuries-old calligraphy traditions passed down through generations. Visiting it feels like stepping into a living museum, and it's a beautiful reminder of how Japan has contributed to global culture for over 130 years. 🦝 Join me on a Tanuki Stories tour , and I’ll take you there myself, along with other hidden cultural gems that you won’t find in any guidebook.

  • Soccer in Japan: From Meiji Curiosity to Global Passion

    When you think of Japan, soccer might not be the first thing that comes to mind. You might imagine temples, anime, or cherry blossoms. But step onto the streets of Tokyo or Osaka during a national team match, and you’ll witness something unexpected—cafés packed with fans in blue jerseys, shouting in unison as if under a collective spell. Soccer in Japan isn’t just a sport—it’s a cultural force, a symbol of unity, and a journey that has transformed over a century. SOCCER IN JAPAN The Early Days: British Boots on Japanese Soil The story of soccer in Japan begins, like many things in modern Japanese history, with the Meiji Restoration. As Japan opened its doors to the West in the late 19th century, foreign influences poured in—railroads, philosophy, and football. In 1873, British Royal Navy officers stationed in Yokohama reportedly introduced the game to Japanese students at naval academies. At first, it was more of a curiosity—a foreign game played by foreigners on borrowed fields. But curiosity grew into enthusiasm. By the early 1900s, matches between Japanese and foreign residents became more common. In 1921, the Japan Football Association (JFA) was formed, laying the groundwork for organised competition. What had started as a foreign pastime was now taking root. School Spirit and Olympic Dreams In the 1920s and 30s, soccer gained traction in schools and universities. These educational institutions became the first breeding grounds for Japanese footballers. Japan’s first major international appearance came in 1936 at the Berlin Olympics, where the team pulled off a stunning comeback victory over Sweden. This event, dubbed the “Miracle of Berlin,” gave Japan a taste of what soccer could mean on the world stage. However, war soon halted progress. It wasn’t until after World War II that soccer in Japan resumed its ascent, this time on a larger and more ambitious scale. In 1968, Japan stunned the world by winning the bronze medal at the Mexico City Olympics, with star striker Kunishige Kamamoto becoming a national hero. The Japan Soccer League: A Semi-Professional Prelude Following this success, the Japan Soccer League (JSL) was launched in 1965. It was the first national league and consisted mostly of corporate teams—players were often employees who trained after work. Companies like Mitsubishi, Yamaha, and Nissan backed teams, giving them financial stability but little incentive to professionalise. While the JSL developed strong players and competitive matches, it never captured the national imagination. Stadiums were rarely full, and media attention was modest. Something was missing: a connection with the fans. 1993: The J.League Revolution Everything changed in 1993. That year, the J.League was born—a fully professional league with community-rooted clubs, international players, and a media-savvy marketing plan. The league kicked off with ten teams, and the opening match between Verdy Kawasaki and Yokohama Marinos was watched by millions across Japan. The J.League wasn’t just about football. It was about identity . Teams were no longer extensions of corporations but part of the communities they represented. Slogans like the “Hundred Year Vision” emerged, reflecting the league’s long-term goal: to create a world-class football culture in Japan. Even setbacks couldn’t derail this ambition. Attendance dropped during the economic recession in the late '90s, but the J.League adapted—introducing a second division (J2) in 1999, launching youth academies, and creating a promotion/relegation system to keep competition fierce. Today, the league consists of three divisions (J1, J2, J3) , with over 60 clubs nationwide. Grassroots Growth and Manga Magic One of the most distinctive aspects of soccer in Japan is its youth development strategy. After disappointing international results in the 1980s, Japan overhauled its training system. It started with children: school programs, grassroots clubs, and city leagues sprang up across the country. Coaches were trained in technical development, not just athleticism. And then came a different kind of magic— manga . In 1981, a comic series called Captain Tsubasa was published. It told the story of a boy with a dream of becoming a soccer star. The series became a nationwide hit and inspired an entire generation of players, many of whom later admitted they picked up the ball because of it. Soccer wasn’t just on the pitch—it was in lunchboxes, anime screens, and school notebooks. Japan had found a way to blend culture and sport in a uniquely Japanese way. Global Stage: The Samurai Blue Rise In 1998, Japan qualified for its first FIFA World Cup . Though the team didn’t advance beyond the group stage, the country celebrated as if they had won it all. It was a symbolic moment—proof that the J.League, grassroots programs, and long-term vision were bearing fruit. Since then, Japan has qualified for every World Cup and reached the knockout stages multiple times. The Samurai Blue , as the national team is affectionately called, have become a fixture of the international football scene. Japan’s signature playing style—technical, fast, and tactically disciplined—has earned respect globally. In parallel, the Nadeshiko Japan , the women’s national team, shocked the world by winning the FIFA Women’s World Cup in 2011 , defeating the United States in a dramatic penalty shootout. It was a victory that resonated far beyond sports, coming just months after the devastating Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami. International Stars and Cultural Impact The J.League has attracted international stars over the years, from Zico in the early days to Andrés Iniesta , who recently played for Vissel Kobe. These players not only elevate the level of the league but also bring global visibility to Japanese soccer. On the flip side, Japanese players like Hidetoshi Nakata , Keisuke Honda , Shinji Kagawa , and Takefusa Kubo have made their mark in Europe, proving that Japan is more than just a regional powerhouse. Soccer in Japan is now deeply woven into daily life. From local futsal matches to nationwide World Cup fever, the sport unites generations. It also reflects changing societal values: teams are increasingly diverse, with mixed-heritage players like Takehiro Tomiyasu representing a more multicultural Japan. A Sport with a Vision What makes soccer in Japan unique isn’t just the skill or the spectacle—it’s the vision behind it . The J.League’s success didn’t come from money alone but from community engagement, youth development, and cultural storytelling. In many ways, soccer mirrors Japan’s modern identity: blending tradition with innovation, humility with ambition, and local roots with global dreams. As the nation looks ahead to future tournaments—including its confirmed participation in the 2026 FIFA World Cup —there’s a sense that this is only the beginning. Japan isn’t just playing the game—it’s helping to shape its future. ⚽ Want to Experience Soccer in Japan Firsthand? Whether it’s watching a J.League match under the lights or chatting with locals at a neighbourhood pitch, soccer in Japan offers unforgettable insights into the country’s spirit. 🦝 Do you want to live Japan with me?📩 Message me!

  • Kadō and Ikebana: The Spiritual Art of Japanese Flower Arrangement

    In Japan, flowers are not merely decoration—they are teachers, storytellers, and mirrors of the human soul. This is the essence of Kadō & Ikebana , the traditional Japanese art of flower arrangement. Rooted in Buddhist offerings and refined through centuries of aesthetic evolution, Kadō (華道)—literally the Way of Flowers —is both a spiritual path and an artistic discipline. Also known as Ikebana (生け花, “living flowers”), it encourages harmony between nature and the self, between emptiness and form. While it may resemble Western floral design at first glance, Kadō and Ikebana are worlds apart in purpose, technique, and philosophy. Let’s explore this refined tradition and its deep cultural meaning. KADŌ and IKEBANA Kadō & Ikebana: More Than Flower Arrangement In Japan, learning Kadō and Ikebana is not about creating pretty bouquets. It’s about learning how to see. To pause. To reflect. Each arrangement is created with seasonal flowers and natural cuttings placed in a container with intentional space, movement, and symbolism. The finished piece often uses just a few elements but conveys a mood, a season, or even a prayer. Kadō is one of the three great paths of traditional Japanese refinement, alongside Sadō (the Way of Tea) and Shodō (the Way of Calligraphy). These practices share a common goal: training the spirit through discipline, beauty, and silence. The Buddhist Roots of Kadō and Ikebana The story of Kadō and Ikebana begins over 1,500 years ago, when Buddhism arrived in Japan. Monks began placing flowers as offerings on temple altars—a gesture of impermanence and devotion. One such temple, Rokkakudō in Kyoto, became the legendary birthplace of Ikebana. There, a monk named Senkei Ikenobō is said to have created flower arrangements not just for offering, but for contemplation. His name would go on to found Ikenobō , the oldest and most influential school of Ikebana in Japan. As Buddhist monks passed on their floral knowledge, the practice spread to the aristocracy, the samurai class, and eventually to everyday citizens. What began as a religious act became one of Japan’s most refined arts. Symbolism and Seasonality in Japanese Flower Arrangement A defining trait of Kadō and Ikebana is seasonal awareness . Flowers are chosen not just for colour or shape, but for what they represent within nature’s cycle. A camellia in early spring suggests quiet renewal. A falling chrysanthemum in autumn evokes transience. Every part of the arrangement matters: The angle of the stem The balance of space The container’s shape and texture The emotions of the creator A traditional arrangement displayed in a tokonoma (alcove) speaks silently to the guest. If a bud faces the guest and the bloom faces the host, it symbolises a wish for the guest’s future to blossom. Every detail reflects intention and respect. Three Classical Styles of Ikebana Over time, Kadō and Ikebana developed several styles, each with its own philosophy and structure. 1. Rikka (Standing Flowers) This is the most formal and ancient style, often used in temple settings or imperial displays. Rikka arrangements are tall, vertical, and symbolic of vast natural landscapes—mountains, rivers, forests—all captured in a single vase. 2. Shōka (Pure Flowers) A simplified version of Rikka, this style is based on three primary lines: Shin (heaven) Soe (earth) Tai (human) These three lines create an asymmetrical but balanced form, with deep spiritual symbolism. The shape, orientation, and height of each line correspond to natural forces and human relationships. 3. Jiyūka (Free Style) The most modern and flexible style. Artists can use non-traditional materials like driftwood, wire, or even metal. Yet even in freestyle, the spirit of Kadō remains—there must be seasonal sensitivity and a dialogue between the natural elements and the creator’s mind. Tools, Rituals, and Vessels in Kadō Creating a piece of Kadō and Ikebana requires not only flowers but tools that serve both practical and symbolic roles: Kenzan (spike frog): A base that holds stems upright at specific angles Hasami (shears): Used to cut stems and shape twigs Suiban (shallow container): For wide, horizontal compositions Bronze vases or ceramic bowls : Chosen to complement the season and flowers The act of arranging is itself a ritual. The practitioner often begins with a bow, chooses each flower mindfully, and finishes with another bow of gratitude to the flowers, the earth, and the guest who will view the work. From Rokkakudō to the World: The Evolution of Ikebana In the 15th century, Senkei Ikenobō formalised flower arrangement into a spiritual and aesthetic path. His successors developed written guides, diagrams, and philosophies that would become the foundation of modern schools. By the 18th century, simpler arrangements like Shōka allowed commoners to practice Kadō at home. During the Meiji era, Ikebana was taught in schools, especially to girls, as part of cultural education. The 20th century brought globalisation. Freestyle Ikebana grew popular as Japan opened to the West. New schools emerged, including Sōgetsu and Ohara , that encouraged creativity while honouring traditional values. Today, Kadō and Ikebana are taught and practised worldwide, transcending religion and nationality. Philosophy of Kadō: Flowers as a Path to Enlightenment More than aesthetics, Kadō and Ikebana teach how to live. The placement of a flower is a reflection of the mind. The space between stems represents possibility. The impermanence of petals reminds us of the beauty in transience. The philosophy is deeply influenced by: Zen Buddhism (presence, silence) Wabi-sabi (beauty in imperfection) Mono no aware (the pathos of things) A practitioner of Kadō learns humility, mindfulness, and gratitude. The flower is not the object—it is the medium. The arrangement is not a product—it is a moment in time. Kadō & Ikebana Today: Living Tradition, Global Art There are now over 2,000 schools of Ikebana in Japan alone. Some follow centuries-old forms; others push the boundaries of contemporary design. Yet all share a common thread: respect for nature and for the spirit within the artist. Kadō is now performed in museums, temples, private homes, and international exhibitions. From Tokyo to New York, practitioners gather to exchange ideas, host demonstrations, and teach workshops. In today’s fast-paced world, Ikebana provides a moment to pause and breathe—to shape nature with intention and quiet strength. Experience Kadō & Ikebana in Kyoto If you’re travelling to Kyoto, the heart of Japanese tradition, consider visiting: Rokkakudō Temple , birthplace of Ikebana The Ikenobō Headquarters , with seasonal exhibitions and workshops The Kadō Museum , with historic arrangements and vessels And of course, on a Tanuki Stories tour , I’ll guide you through the hidden corners of Kyoto and Nara, where you can witness Kadō practised in authentic settings. You may even try your hand at arranging your own seasonal flowers, guided by tradition and spirit. Final Thoughts on Kadō and Ikebana Kadō & Ikebana are not just arts—they are expressions of life, discipline, and mindfulness. In a single flower, we find stillness. In a bent branch, we find beauty. In the space between petals, we find peace. So next time you pass a flower, don’t just look. Listen. Feel. Arrange. Reflect. That is the Way of Flowers. 📍 Join my walking tours in Kyoto and Nara to discover Kadō, temples, gardens, and the timeless beauty of Japan’s living traditions.

  • Kōdō: The Way of Incense in Japanese Culture

    In a quiet tatami room in Kyoto, a thin trail of smoke curls into the air, vanishing before it can be grasped. A small group sits in stillness, not speaking. One person lifts a delicate incense cup, covers it with a hand, and gently inhales. They are not just smelling—they are listening . This is Kōdō: The Way of Incense in Japanese Culture . More than a sensory delight, Kōdō is a contemplative art, a bridge between the physical and the spiritual, where a fleeting fragrance becomes a path to stillness, memory, and mindfulness. Though less known than tea ceremony or flower arrangement, Kōdō is one of Japan’s most elegant and refined traditions. Kōdō What Is Kōdō: The Way of Incense in Japanese Culture? Kōdō (香道), meaning “The Way of Incense,” is one of Japan’s three classical refined arts, alongside sadō (tea ceremony) and kadō (flower arranging). Unlike simply burning incense for its smell, Kōdō elevates the experience to a ceremonial and philosophical practice. The Japanese do not say “smell the incense” during Kōdō—they say “listen to the incense” ( kō o kiku ). This poetic phrasing reveals the depth of the practice: incense becomes not just fragrance, but an invitation to focus the mind, clear distractions, and experience the impermanence of scent with complete presence. A Thousand Years of Fragrance: The Origins of Kōdō The origins of Kōdō: The Way of Incense in Japanese Culture trace back to the 6th century, when incense arrived in Japan with Buddhism from China. Initially, incense served spiritual functions—purifying temples, cleansing practitioners before rituals, and masking the scent of mortality in funerary rites. But incense soon transcended its religious roots. By the Heian period (794–1185), it had found a place in the imperial court. Nobles blended their own incense recipes, infused letters with fragrance, and composed poems inspired by specific scents. Incense appreciation evolved into a noble pastime. During the Muromachi period (14th–16th century), the art was formalised into Kōdō. Two figures—Sanjonishi Sanetaka and Shino Soshin—laid down the foundations for its practice, transforming casual appreciation into a codified aesthetic discipline. The Ritual and Tools Behind the Way of Incense At the heart of Kōdō lies a highly ritualised process. It begins with preparing the kōro , the incense cup, filled with fine white ash. A red-hot charcoal is buried within the ash and shaped into a small cone. Over this, a sliver of mica is placed, and a chip of aromatic wood rests gently on top. The wood never burns—instead, it warms slowly, releasing an ethereal, subtle scent. Participants take turns lifting the incense cup to their noses, covering it with one hand to trap the aroma. They don’t comment aloud. They reflect. The aim is to immerse fully in the experience of the scent as it rises, changes, and fades—an exercise in stillness and presence. Five Fragrance Types in Kōdō: Learning to Listen In Kōdō: The Way of Incense in Japanese Culture , scents are not only appreciated—they are classified. Traditionally, there are five main fragrance profiles: Sweet (Amakō) – Honeyed, soft, and nostalgic Sour (Sankō) – Sharp, tangy like citrus or pickled plum Spicy (Shinkō) – Warm and piquant like pepper or cinnamon Bitter (Nikkō) – Herbal, like burnt citrus peel Salty (Enkō) – Evocative of sea spray or minerals These categories help practitioners describe and differentiate scents during Kōdō games and ceremonies. But more than analytical tools, they are poetic prompts—each fragrance might evoke memories, stories, or emotions unique to the individual. Kōdō Games and Literary Elegance One of the most famous games in Kōdō is Genjikō , inspired by The Tale of Genji , the 11th-century literary masterpiece by Murasaki Shikibu. In Genjikō, five incense samples are presented. Some are identical, some are not. Participants must listen to each scent and record which ones are the same using a stylised pattern. Each pattern corresponds to a chapter in The Tale of Genji , blending fragrance, literature, memory, and formality into one sensory experience. In this way, Kōdō combines not only mindfulness and scent but also storytelling, poetry, and aesthetics. Sacred Woods: The Precious Ingredients of Kōdō The aromatic woods used in Kōdō: The Way of Incense in Japanese Culture are rare and precious. The most revered are jinkō and kyara , fragrant woods formed when Aquilaria trees are infected by a special mould. As the tree heals, it produces resin. Over decades—and sometimes centuries—this resin-rich heartwood develops a deep, complex aroma. Kyara , the highest grade of jinkō, is more expensive than gold. A single gram may cost over ¥15,000 (USD $150). These woods are never ignited. Instead, they are gently warmed so that only their purest scent is released. Some families in Japan have preserved their own fragments of incense wood for generations, using them only on special occasions or at highly formal Makeō incense ceremonies. Kōdō: The Way of Incense in Everyday Japanese Life While formal Kōdō ceremonies are rare and require training, incense plays a regular role in daily Japanese life. Temples and Shrines : Visitors light incense to purify themselves before prayers. Gravesites : Incense is offered to ancestors to show respect and invite peace. Homes : Incense is used for relaxation, hospitality, or during seasonal changes. Sachets and Stationery : Fragrances are placed in kimono sleeves, bags, or letters. Modern Japanese incense comes in a wide variety—from sandalwood and agarwood to yuzu, green tea, and cherry blossom. Stores in Kyoto, Tokyo, and even online offer both traditional and contemporary blends. A Cultural Soul of Stillness and Scent In a noisy world obsessed with speed and productivity, Kōdō: The Way of Incense in Japanese Culture offers a path to stillness. It’s a celebration of impermanence , subtlety , and presence —core values in many aspects of Japanese life. Kōdō also embodies mono no aware (the gentle sadness of things passing), wabi-sabi (the beauty of imperfection), and ma (the meaningful space between things). A fragrance that appears, transforms, and disappears teaches us to cherish the moment. This is not about the product—it’s about the experience. Kōdō Experiences in Kyoto and Beyond If you're visiting Japan, especially Kyoto, don't miss the opportunity to explore its incense culture. Ancient incense houses such as Shoyeido and Yamadamatsu have been crafting blends for centuries. Some offer short incense-making workshops. Others have showrooms where you can smell historic blends once reserved for emperors and monks. And if you're joining one of my Tanuki Stories tours in Kyoto, Nara, or Osaka, I’ll make sure to include a stop at a traditional incense shop or a temple where the air is still heavy with the scent of prayer and time. Final Reflections on Kōdō: The Way of Incense in Japanese Culture Kōdō is not just about fragrance—it’s about perception, memory, and meaning. It invites us to stop, breathe, and notice what’s invisible. It’s about listening—with the nose, the heart, and the soul. In a single breath of warmed wood, you might find history, poetry, meditation, and wonder. So next time you light a stick of incense, don’t just smell it. Listen. 📍 Discover the scent of Japan with me. Join a Tanuki Stories tour and explore Kyoto, Nara, and Osaka not just with your eyes, but with all your senses.

  • Judo: The Way of Kindness and Strength — From Battlefield to Global Sport

    Judo, often translated as “the gentle way,” is much more than a competitive sport — it is a philosophical path and physical discipline rooted in respect, strategy, and inner growth. Developed in the late 19th century by Jigoro Kano , judo distanced itself from the often dangerous jujutsu techniques of feudal Japan and transformed into a martial art that embraced safety, education, and global unity. JUDO The Origins of Judo: From Jujutsu to Judoka Kano, a brilliant and determined young man, began studying jujutsu at the age of 18. At that time, the samurai class had vanished, and jujutsu was in decline, dismissed as too brutal and outdated. Recognising both the value and risk of these techniques, Kano sought to create a system that anyone could practice safely , regardless of age, gender, or physical strength. He carefully removed the lethal elements of jujutsu — strikes to vital points, bone-breaking holds — and instead emphasised throws, pins, and holds that used the opponent’s strength against them . This principle, now fundamental to judo, is known as seiryoku zenyo — maximum efficiency with minimal effort. The Kodokan: Judo’s Global Headquarters To teach and develop his new martial art, Kano opened the Kodokan in Tokyo — now the spiritual and technical headquarters of judo. From its humble beginnings with only 10 students and a small practice room, the Kodokan has become an iconic centre of training, attracting over 25,000 students annually from around the world. Within its walls, practitioners train daily on tatami mats , once made of straw and now replaced with synthetic materials for durability and safety. These mats cushion falls but still provide enough firmness for proper technique and support. Techniques of Judo: Art in Motion Judo is often breathtaking to watch. Its two main technical branches are: Nage-waza (Throwing techniques) : These are the most visually striking, ranging from shoulder throws ( seoi-nage ) to hip throws ( harai-goshi ) and leg sweeps ( de-ashi-barai ). By getting lower than the opponent’s centre of gravity and applying the principle of leverage, even a smaller judoka can topple a much larger opponent. Katame-waza (Grappling techniques) : These include pins, strangles, and joint locks. If a judoka can hold their opponent down for a specific amount of time — usually 20 seconds — they win the match outright. The elegance of judo lies in its use of balance, timing, and energy redirection . For example, if you push someone, they naturally resist by pushing back — a principle judo uses to create an opportunity for a throw. Scoring in Judo: A System of Precision Judo matches are scored based on effectiveness and control: Ippon : A perfect throw or pin ends the match instantly. Waza-ari : A near-perfect move — two of these equal an ippon. Yuko (no longer used in modern judo): Previously awarded for smaller technical achievements. If no ippon is scored within the time limit, the judoka with the most points wins. However, winning by ippon is considered the most honourable way to triumph, as it reflects complete mastery. The Spirit of Judo: Respect and Courtesy Kano believed that judo’s value extended beyond physical technique. The spirit of judo includes: Mutual welfare and benefit ( jita kyoei ): Training with others in a way that uplifts everyone involved. Respect and courtesy : Bowing before and after a match, never throwing an opponent with unnecessary force, and always helping them up afterwards. These values made judo not only a safer martial art but also one suitable for education in schools . By the 1930s, judo was part of the physical education curriculum in Japan, teaching students discipline, perseverance, and respect. International Expansion and the Olympic Dream Although Kano passed away in 1938, his dream of making judo a global practice lived on. He had travelled to 24 countries , including London, Vienna, and New York, conducting demonstrations and lectures to promote his philosophy. After WWII, during which martial arts were banned in Japanese schools for fear of militarism, judo began to flourish internationally. In 1951, the International Judo Federation (IJF) was established, paving the way for international competitions. In 1964, Tokyo hosted the Olympic Games , and judo made its official debut. Japan celebrated with multiple gold medals, though a shocking upset occurred in the open division: Anton Geesink of the Netherlands defeated Japan’s champion , breaking national expectations but exemplifying the humility and grace that Kano had envisioned. When Geesink approached his defeated opponent, his team tried to rush the mat — but Geesink held them back , bowing first. The world saw not only athleticism but judo's deeper spirit . Heroes of Judo: Legends That Inspire One of the most celebrated judoka in history is Yasuhiro Yamashita , who achieved an unbeaten streak of 203 matches over 9 years . Despite suffering a serious injury to his leg before the final match at the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics, he powered through and won the gold medal, not through brute force, but through mastery of technique and spirit. Years later, Yamashita would reunite with his former Olympic opponent, Mohamed Ali Rashwan of Egypt, in a judo workshop. This meeting, full of mutual respect, underscored the idea that judo builds bridges between people and nations . Training the Next Generation Judo’s popularity among children in Japan remains strong. Each year, a national primary school tournament is held, and young hopefuls train diligently to become champions. The case of Haito Honda , a young judoka who continued training even after breaking his wrist, exemplifies the dedication and resilience that judo cultivates. Supported by his father, a judo expert and orthopedic specialist, Haito’s story is one of perseverance and growth through hardship. Such small dojos across Japan are breeding grounds for future champions , guided by Kano’s ranking system that rewards dedication and motivates improvement. Judo: The Way of Kindness At its core, judo is not about domination but self-improvement, mutual respect, and efficiency . Jigoro Kano once said that the purpose of judo is to enrich life and contribute to society, not merely to win matches. Today, judo is practised in over 100 countries , taught in schools, celebrated in international tournaments, and revered as both a sport and a path of personal development . From dojo mats to Olympic arenas, from injured children to legendary athletes, judo continues to shape lives, not only physically but also morally and spiritually. Join Marco’s guided tours in Japan to discover the places, stories, and spirit that gave rise to judo — and explore the heart of Japanese culture from the inside.

  • Anpanman: The Sweetest Japanese Kids Hero

    When you think of Japanese characters for children, few are as iconic and beloved as Anpanman, japanese kids hero . With his round red cheeks, friendly smile, and head made of sweet bean-filled bread, Anpanman is more than just a cartoon character—he’s a symbol of kindness, courage, and the power of helping others. For decades, Anpanman has been a cherished companion for Japanese kids, shaping early childhood with valuable life lessons wrapped in fun adventures. ANPANMAN 🥖 Who Is Anpanman? Anpanman is a superhero with a most unusual head—literally made of anpan , a Japanese sweet roll filled with red bean paste. He was created by Takahashi Yanase , a Japanese cartoonist, in 1973. At the time, Japan was recovering from war and hardship, and the idea of a hero who sacrifices himself to help hungry people resonated deeply. The character officially debuted in a picture book before launching into an anime series titled “Soreike! Anpanman” ("Go! Anpanman") in 1988, which is still running today. This makes it one of the longest-running children's anime series in Japan. 🍞 The Power of Bread and Kindness Anpanman is not your typical superhero. He doesn’t shoot lasers or fly at lightning speed. Instead, he uses kindness, courage , and his bean-bread head to save the day. Whenever he encounters someone who is hungry or in trouble, he offers a piece of his head to help them recover. His creator, Uncle Jam, bakes him a new head whenever needed. This symbolic act—giving a part of yourself to help someone else—has had a powerful effect on Japanese kids , teaching values like empathy and self-sacrifice in a way they can understand. 🦹 Enemies, Friends, and Adventures Anpanman is not alone in his quest for justice. He has a colourful crew of food-themed friends like: Shokupanman (white bread man) Curry Pan Man (curry bread man) Melonpanna (melon bread girl) Baikinman (his germ-themed archenemy) Dokinchan , Baikinman’s cute and mischievous partner Baikinman, whose name literally means "germ man," constantly tries to cause trouble, spreading bacteria and chaos. Anpanman always steps in to stop him, not with violence, but with determination and positive energy. 📺 Why Anpanman Is a Cultural Icon in Japan In Japan, Anpanman is everywhere . He appears on snacks, backpacks, lunch boxes, shampoo bottles, bicycles, and even on aeroplanes. It’s hard to grow up in Japan without encountering his smiling face. But his impact goes beyond merchandise. Anpanman embodies important cultural values that are rooted in Japanese society: helping others, being considerate, and acting for the greater good. His simple yet meaningful stories are designed for preschoolers but have left a mark on generations. Even Japanese adults remember Anpanman as their first hero. He is often one of the first characters babies recognise, thanks to his bright colours, simple lines, and positive attitude. 🎵 The Song Every Japanese Kid Knows The Anpanman theme song, “Anpanman no March,” is a classic. With lyrics that talk about courage, meaning, and the pursuit of justice, it’s not just a catchy tune—it’s a mini philosophy for life. Here’s a rough English translation of one of the lines: "What is happiness? What are you living for? If you don’t have an answer, just keep going forward." For Japanese kids , singing this song is a rite of passage, and many adults still remember the lyrics by heart. 🧸 Anpanman’s Influence Beyond Japan While Anpanman is mostly known within Japan, his influence has reached other countries as well. He inspired Korean boy band BTS’s song “Anpanman” , comparing themselves to a humble hero who helps people in small ways, just like the Japanese kids' hero. There are also Anpanman museums in several Japanese cities like Yokohama, Nagoya, Fukuoka, and Sendai. These museums are interactive spaces where children can play, learn, and meet their favourite characters. 🤝 A Hero Built on Sharing Unlike many action-based superheroes, Anpanman’s real power is his compassion . When he tears off a piece of his own head to feed someone in need, it teaches children that helping others comes before yourself . In a culture where community harmony is valued, this message fits perfectly. Japanese kids learn from Anpanman that being strong doesn’t mean being violent—it means being kind, generous, and brave. 📚 Educational Value of Anpanman The educational appeal of Anpanman is another reason he’s so popular with parents. His stories are filled with: Moral lessons (kindness, courage, sharing) Simple Japanese vocabulary Safe, age-appropriate conflicts Repetition and song to aid early learning The anime series is often used in kindergartens and homes to support early childhood development in Japan. 💬 What Anpanman Says About Japanese Society Anpanman reflects deep aspects of Japanese culture: The value of self-sacrifice ( giri ) The importance of community The subtle fight between good and evil , where the hero wins not through power, but through compassion The beauty of simplicity in design and storytelling Even though the premise is whimsical—a superhero made of bread—it becomes a profound message about how goodness can be quiet, humble, and sweet . 🧭 Conclusion: Anpanman, the Eternal Hero for Japanese Kids Anpanman is more than just a character. He’s a cultural treasure, a teaching tool, and a nostalgic figure for millions of Japanese kids and adults. His presence reminds us that even small acts of kindness can be heroic , and that helping others is the greatest strength of all. Whether you’re a fan of anime, parenting in Japan, or simply curious about Japanese pop culture, learning about Anpanman offers a heartwarming window into how a society can shape its youngest members with stories of sweetness, bravery, and generosity.

  • Sugawara no Michizane: From Brilliant Scholar to Japan’s Most Feared Vengeful Spirit

    At the crossroads of poetry, court intrigue, and supernatural belief stands the fascinating and complex figure of Sugawara no Michizane (845–903). Known today as the kami of knowledge, Sugawara no Michizane also serves as one of the most compelling examples of how a historical figure can be transformed into a mythical and divine presence. This article explores his life, political downfall, spiritual rebirth, and lasting legacy in Japan’s culture and collective memory. Sugawara no Michizane A Brilliant Mind in Ancient Japan Sugawara no Michizane was born into a family of scholars and stood out early for his intelligence and dedication to study. He excelled in Chinese-style poetry ( kanshi ), which at the time was regarded as one of the highest forms of artistic expression. It is said that he could compose twenty poems on twenty different subjects—all while having dinner. Thanks to his intellect and talent, Sugawara no Michizane quickly rose through the ranks of the imperial bureaucracy, earning the trust of Emperor Uda, who supported his ascent and appointed him to high-ranking positions. Among his most prestigious titles were Udaijin (Minister of the Right), ambassador to China, and tutor to the Crown Prince. However, the imperial court was rife with political rivalries, and Sugawara no Michizane 's success did not go unnoticed by the powerful Fujiwara clan, who held dominance at court. The Fall: The Michizane Incident In 897, Emperor Uda abdicated in favour of Emperor Daigo, who came under strong influence from the Fujiwara. Sugawara no Michizane 's enemies took this opportunity to discredit him, falsely accusing him of plotting against the throne. The outcome was harsh: Sugawara no Michizane was stripped of his titles and exiled to Dazaifu, in the distant province of Kyushu. Deprived of his positions, isolated, and living in poverty, Sugawara no Michizane continued to write melancholic poetry, expressing his loyalty to the emperor and the pain of injustice. He died in 903, likely from malnutrition. It was a tragic and undeserved end, but it was not the end of his story. The Wrath of a Ghost After his death, Kyoto was struck by a series of devastating natural disasters and tragedies that many believed were caused by the vengeful spirit of Sugawara no Michizane . Torrential rains in 903, drought in 905, severe flooding in 906 and again in 910, and finally a lightning bolt striking the imperial palace in 930, killing several officials. Emperor Daigo, shocked and overwhelmed, fell ill and died three months later. These events were attributed to Sugawara no Michizane 's transformation into an onryō , a type of Japanese vengeful spirit that returns from the afterlife to avenge injustices suffered in life. Unlike ordinary ghosts, onryō are feared for their destructive power—and in the case of Sugawara no Michizane , nothing seemed capable of stopping him. Reconciliation: Turning a Threat into a Deity Faced with a string of disasters that threatened the empire’s stability, the court realized that denial or suppression would not suffice. Reconciliation with the wronged spirit was the only answer. The imperial court posthumously exonerated Sugawara no Michizane , restoring his titles and declaring his innocence. The most important gesture was the construction of a lavish shrine in his honor—Dazaifu Tenmangū in Fukuoka, built on the site of his exile and death. In this way, the court transformed a destructive force into a divine protector. Sugawara no Michizane was elevated to the status of a kami and became known as Tenjin , the god of knowledge, scholarship, and letters. From Onryō to Guardian of Students Over time, the cult of Sugawara no Michizane as Tenjin spread throughout Japan. Many Tenmangū shrines were built in his honour, including the famous Kitano Tenmangū in Kyoto. His image evolved: from a furious spirit to a guardian of students, an inspiration to poets, and a protector of wisdom. Even today, before major school exams, thousands of Japanese students visit Tenjin shrines to pray and leave ema —wooden votive plaques—asking for academic success. The message is clear: those who suffer injustice can become guides, and knowledge, when honoured, can transform rage into insight. A Legacy That Endures The story of Sugawara no Michizane is emblematic in Japanese culture. His transformation from a human being into a deity illustrates how, in Japanese spirituality, the memory of the dead is not erased but integrated. Negative energies are not destroyed—they are redirected. Vengeance can be replaced by reverence, and trauma can be sublimated into poetry, art, and faith. Sugawara no Michizane also represents the concept of posthumous justice. His story teaches that even after death, wrongs can be acknowledged, and those cast aside may regain dignity—even if only in the spiritual realm. Visiting Tenjin’s Shrines If you ever visit Japan, a trip to one of the Tenmangū shrines is a powerful experience that blends history, spirituality, and popular tradition. Dazaifu Tenmangū, located just 30 minutes from Fukuoka, is surrounded by beautiful natural scenery and traditional architecture. During plum blossom season ( ume ), the shrine bursts with colour and poetry—a fitting tribute to Sugawara no Michizane , who loved these flowers. Kitano Tenmangū in Kyoto offers another perspective on Japan’s religious life. It hosts monthly markets, ceremonial rituals, and moments of reflection for students and families alike. Conclusion: Sugawara no Michizane Sugawara no Michizane is not just a historical figure. He is living—rather, spiritual—proof that in Japan, the line between man and deity can be crossed when history, emotion, and culture demand it. His story resonates with anyone who has ever felt betrayed, excluded, or forgotten—and with anyone who believes in the power of knowledge and justice, even when it arrives from beyond the grave. Whether you are a student seeking good fortune, a history enthusiast, or simply curious, remember this: if you ever hear an unexpected thunderclap in the skies over Kyoto, it might be Sugawara no Michizane still watching, reminding all of us of the cost of injustice and the enduring power of memory.

  • The Ghost of Ukai Kansaku: A Tale of Cormorant Fishing, Betrayal, and Redemption

    In the tranquil countryside of Yamanashi Prefecture , near the therapeutic springs of Isawa Onsen , a powerful legend has flowed down through the centuries like the river that inspired it. This is the story of Ukai Kansaku , a cormorant fisherman whose death by drowning sparked one of Japan’s most haunting ghost stories—and a ritual of compassion that remains honoured to this day. Here, along the banks of the Isawa River , nestled in what was once called Kai Province , spirit and stone converge, telling a tale of human cruelty, spiritual redemption, and the enduring power of Buddhist prayer. Ukai Kansaku A Warrior Turned Fisherman Ukai Kansaku was not always a fisherman. He was once known as Taira no Tokitada , born into the prestigious Taira clan in 1130. His life was shaped by the storm of the Genpei War (1180–1185) , a brutal conflict between the Taira and Minamoto clans that would decide the fate of Japan. Tokitada held an important role in his clan—he was entrusted with the protection of one of the Three Sacred Treasures , a mirror representing the divine authority of the emperor. But when the Taira lost the decisive Battle of Dan-no-ura , he chose survival over martyrdom. Rather than cast himself into the sea, he surrendered the treasure to the victors. Though his life was spared, Tokitada was exiled and stripped of his name and status. Shamed and cast out, he wandered Japan under a new identity: Ukai Kansaku . A Sacred Taboo Broken In time, Kansaku reached the peaceful Isawa River in what is now Fuefuki City , Yamanashi Prefecture . Along its banks, he revived an old skill from childhood— ukai , the ancient Japanese practice of fishing with trained cormorants. With his birds and a quiet stretch of water, he hoped to make a humble living. But this part of the river was considered sacred . For generations, the villagers believed that no life—fish, bird, or otherwise—should be taken from its waters. Kansaku, unaware of this taboo, cast his nets into the current. The reaction was swift and merciless. Though Kansaku begged for forgiveness and explained his ignorance, the villagers were unmoved. In a cruel act of punishment, they beat him , wrapped him in straw, and threw him into the Isawa River , where he drowned. A Spirit in the River Ukai Kansaku’s soul did not find peace. His death had been unjust, and the spiritual weight of that injustice anchored him to the river. He became a jibakurei (地縛霊) —a spirit bound to a specific location. Soon after, the villagers began seeing a ghostly figure rise from the waters. He appeared soaked and silent, still wearing the clothing of a fisherman. Though he did no harm, his appearance was enough to strike fear into all who saw him. The river, once a place of life, became a symbol of dread. Nichiren Shōnin Arrives Years later, a wandering monk named Nichiren Shōnin passed through the region. He was already known for his devotion to the Lotus Sutra and for founding what would become the Nichiren sect of Buddhism . Upon reaching the village near the Isawa River, Nichiren found an eerie silence. Boats lay abandoned, homes were shuttered, and fear lingered like mist. When he asked about the river, villagers told him of the ghost who haunted it. Nichiren was not afraid. Instead, he made his way to the riverbank and sat in deep meditation, awaiting the spirit. A Tale of Sorrow That evening, the ghost of Kansaku rose again. But this time, someone was waiting—not with terror, but with empathy. Nichiren addressed the spirit directly. Kansaku revealed his identity and the tragedy that had led him to this state: a nobleman turned fisherman, punished not for malice but for ignorance. Nichiren was moved. He believed all beings possessed the potential for enlightenment, and Kansaku was no exception. He vowed to set the spirit free. The Sutra in Stones Nichiren began a ritual unlike any seen before. Over three days and three nights , he gathered 70,000 small stones from the riverside. On each, he inscribed a single character from the Lotus Sutra , the sacred scripture he believed held the key to salvation. One by one, he tossed the stones into the river, offering the entire sutra to Kansaku’s tormented soul. Nichiren neither ate nor slept. His devotion was unwavering. When the final stone touched the water, Kansaku’s spirit appeared for the last time. He bowed in silence—and then vanished , freed at last from the world that had wronged him. Ukaisan Onmyō-ji Temple: A Legacy Carved in Stone To commemorate the ritual and the monk’s compassion, the villagers established a temple nearby. That temple, Ukaisan Onmyō-ji (鵜飼山 遠妙寺) , still stands today in Fuefuki City, Yamanashi Prefecture , just a short walk from Isawa Onsen Station . The temple’s Ukai-dō Hall enshrines a memorial to Kansaku. Several of the Lotus Sutra stones used by Nichiren are still preserved on-site, housed in a beautifully decorated container. The temple’s Niōmon Gate , dating from the Edo period, greets visitors with quiet dignity. More than just a religious site, Onmyō-ji Temple is a place of historical memory , spiritual depth, and human reflection. How to Visit Temple Name: Ukaisan Onmyō-ji (鵜飼山 遠妙寺) Location: Fuefuki City, Yamanashi Prefecture Nearest Station: Isawa-Onsen Station (JR Chūō Line) Access from Tokyo: Approx. 90 minutes via JR Limited Express from Shinjuku Walking Distance: ~10–15 minutes from the station Visitors today come not only to admire the architecture or seek healing in the nearby hot springs, but also to reflect on the story of a soul who found peace through being seen. The Meaning of Kansaku’s Story Ukai Kansaku’s tale is not about revenge—it’s about recognition , injustice , and compassion . He was not a malevolent ghost, but a man wronged by those who refused to understand him. In life, he was punished for breaking a rule he never knew. In death, he found peace through one person’s empathy and ritual. His legend teaches us that: Not all hauntings are born of hatred—some are born of sorrow. Listening with compassion can heal even the deepest wounds. Redemption is not beyond the reach of anyone, living or dead. Final Thoughts on Ukai Kansaku As the Isawa River continues to flow through Yamanashi, so does the story of Ukai Kansaku —carried by sutra stones, whispered through temple halls, and remembered in the quiet ripples of time. His ghost no longer walks the banks, but his legacy remains a mirror reflecting our capacity for both cruelty and kindness. Join a Tanuki Stories tour to explore Japan’s hidden legends and spiritual stories—from Kyoto’s sacred mountains to Yamanashi’s haunted rivers. Discover the stories the guidebooks don’t tell.

  • The Ie System: How Japan’s Traditional Family Structure Still Shapes Society

    Have you ever imagined living in a family where your future was predetermined by tradition? In Japan, for centuries, such a reality existed through a system known as the Ie (家) . More than just a “house” in the physical sense, the Ie system was a powerful social structure that governed inheritance, authority, and identity across generations. Though officially abolished after World War II, the remnants of this deeply rooted family model still shape Japanese values, customs, and expectations to this day. Let’s take a closer look at what the Ie system was, how it functioned, and why it still matters in modern Japan. Japanese IE system What Was the Ie System? The word Ie is usually translated as "house" or "household," but within the historical and cultural framework of Japan, its meaning was far more complex. The Ie referred to a patrilineal family unit that stretched beyond the nuclear family. It included multiple generations and extended relatives living under one “head of household,” typically the eldest male. The Ie wasn’t just a group of people living together—it was a moral, economic, legal, and even spiritual unit that carried a family’s legacy forward. It was meant to last indefinitely, passing from generation to generation through primogeniture —usually to the eldest son. The Head of the Household: Authority and Control At the core of the Ie was the koshu (戸主) , or head of the family. Under the Meiji-era Civil Code enacted in 1898, the koshu held absolute legal authority over family members. He made decisions about marriage, divorce, property, and even adoption. His consent was needed for nearly all important family matters. This role was both a privilege and a responsibility . The koshu was expected to maintain the family name, preserve the ancestral graves, and safeguard the household property. In return, he enjoyed a position of honour: his meals were more elaborate, he was greeted first upon arrival, and he sat in the seat of highest status at the table. Ancestor Worship and Spiritual Foundations One of the core spiritual elements of the Ie system was ancestor worship . This belief, influenced by both Shinto and Buddhism , held that ancestors protected the family from the spiritual world. Every household was expected to maintain a butsudan (仏壇) —a family altar—to honor these spirits. During the Obon festival each summer, families would return to their hometowns, clean ancestral graves, and offer prayers and food to the deceased. Failing to honour one’s ancestors was seen not only as disrespectful but potentially dangerous, inviting curses or misfortune. In this way, the Ie system wasn't just a social contract—it was also a sacred duty . The Role of Women in the Ie The Ie system was firmly patriarchal. Women were considered subordinate to men and were expected to marry into their husband’s Ie, adjusting to their customs and hierarchy. Their main role was to bear children , especially sons who could continue the family line. If a woman failed to produce an heir, she could be divorced. Even if she did, her status often remained fragile, especially if her husband’s family found her lacking in obedience or productivity. Despite this, many women played vital roles in maintaining the household economy, managing day-to-day affairs, and educating children, although their contributions were rarely recognised with status or authority. Adoption and the Continuation of the Line One fascinating feature of the Ie system was its approach to adoption . In many societies, adoption is seen primarily as a way to care for orphaned children. In Japan, it was often a strategic tool to ensure the survival of the Ie. If there was no son to inherit, a male heir could be adopted—sometimes by marrying a daughter of the family and taking on the family name. In this way, the continuity of the house was more important than bloodlines . Even today, Japan has one of the highest rates of adult adoption in the world, particularly in business families who wish to keep leadership within trusted hands. Differences Among Social Classes The structure and strictness of the Ie system varied depending on one’s social class: Samurai families held great importance in lineage, honour, and ancestral records. The Ie was a symbol of status and power, and maintaining its purity was critical. Farmer families , in contrast, viewed the household more as a unit of economic production. Every member had to contribute, regardless of gender or age, and the atmosphere was often more cooperative than hierarchical. Even so, across classes, the underlying principles of the Ie— duty, hierarchy, and continuity —remained largely consistent. Legal Codification and the Meiji Civil Code The Ie system was formally institutionalised during the Meiji period (1868–1912) when Japan sought to modernise its legal system. The 1898 Civil Code defined the family unit with the koshu as its head, granting him extensive rights and responsibilities. Under this law, he could approve or veto marriages, adopt or disinherit heirs, and determine where family members lived. Parents also had legal authority over their children’s property and life decisions until they left the household or created a new one. This legal structure reinforced traditional family values and ensured the Ie’s social control and moral discipline . The Fall of the Ie System After WWII The end of World War II brought massive social reforms to Japan, including a complete overhaul of the Civil Code in 1947 under American occupation. These reforms: Abolished the legal power of the koshu Introduced equal rights for husbands and wives Allowed inheritance to be divided equally Modernised the koseki (family register) system to reflect individual, not household, identity The result was the official end of the Ie system as a legal institution. The Ie’s Influence in Modern Japan Despite its legal dissolution, the ideals and expectations of the Ie system still linger in Japanese society. Many families still expect the eldest son to care for aging parents or maintain the family grave. Some households continue the tradition of honouring ancestors through daily offerings at the butsudan . And public opinion remains divided: while younger generations embrace individualism, many still uphold the moral values rooted in the Ie. For example, surveys show that nearly half of Japanese people still believe couples should share the same family name, a remnant of the idea that a wife enters her husband’s Ie. At the same time, a growing number believe in equality within marriage , reflecting the shift from household identity to individual freedom. Conclusion The Ie system was more than just a traditional family structure—it was the backbone of Japanese society for generations. Though no longer legally recognised, its cultural imprint remains deep. It continues to influence how families function, how roles are assigned, and how relationships are shaped, even in Japan's fast-paced modern world. Understanding the Ie means understanding the tension between tradition and modernity in Japan—a story still being written by each generation. ✨ Join My Tour and Discover the Real Japan Curious to see how the legacy of the Ie system still lives on in shrines, homes, and ancestral customs? Join one of my walking tours in Kyoto, Nara, or Osaka. We explore not only beautiful places, but also the spiritual and cultural roots that shaped Japanese society. 📍 Book your spot today! Let’s walk through history—together.

  • Kendo: The Way of the Sword

    Kendo, the way of the sword, is more than just a martial art. It is a living tradition that continues to embody the philosophy, discipline, and indomitable spirit of the samurai. Rooted in centuries of Japanese history, kendo combines physical skill with mental resilience to create a path of lifelong self-improvement. In this article, we explore the origins of kendo, its techniques and gear, its relevance in modern society, and the inspiring stories of practitioners who carry the flame of this ancient art into the future. KENDO A Legacy Forged in Combat The story of kendo begins with the samurai, Japan’s warrior class, who lived by the sword and died by it. During the turbulent Sengoku period (15th–16th century), swordsmanship was a matter of survival. But when the Tokugawa shogunate ushered in an era of peace in the 17th century, real battles became rare. Swordsmen began to refine their skills not for the battlefield, but as a spiritual discipline. One of the most iconic figures of this transition was Miyamoto Musashi , a master swordsman who fought over 60 duels and remained undefeated. His classic treatise, The Book of Five Rings , laid out a philosophy that combined martial excellence with introspective practice. For Musashi, "the sword is the mind" — a concept that lies at the very heart of kendo: the way of the sword. What Is Kendo? Kendo is a one-on-one martial art where practitioners face each other with bamboo swords, called shinai , and wear protective gear modelled after traditional samurai armour. The aim is to strike your opponent at specific target points — the head ( men ), the wrist ( kote ), the torso ( dō ), or the throat ( tsuki ). But physical contact is not enough to score a point. Three elements must align: proper form, correct timing, and the spirit behind the strike. This trinity is known in Japanese as ki-ken-tai no ichi — spirit ( ki ), sword ( ken ), and body ( tai ) as one. Without these in harmony, no victory is recognised. The Armour and Sword of the Samurai Spirit A key part of kendo's allure lies in its visual and material culture. Practitioners wear: Men : A helmet with a steel grill to protect the face and head. Dō : A chest protector traditionally made from lacquered bamboo. Kote : Thick gloves to protect the wrists and forearms. Tare : A protective skirt worn over the hips. Shinai : The bamboo sword used in training and matches, consisting of four slats held together with leather fittings. Though made of modern materials today, every piece is infused with history. Wearing the armour is not just for safety — it’s a way of stepping into the mindset of a warrior. Not Just a Sport, but a Path Unlike many modern sports, kendo does not end with youth. It’s common to find practitioners in their 60s, 70s, or even 80s still training and testing for rank. The highest level, 8th Dan , can only be attempted by those who’ve held 7th Dan for at least 10 years. Fewer than 1% pass. This is because kendo isn’t only about technical ability. It’s a test of character . In exams for higher ranks, candidates are often asked philosophical questions like, "Your sword is your mind. Reflect on this through your practice." This unique blend of martial and mental rigour is what defines kendo: the way of the sword. Training the Spirit: Beyond Victory One of the most intense training methods in kendo is kakari-geiko — a drill in which a practitioner faces multiple opponents in rapid succession for extended periods, often with little or no rest. This is designed to exhaust the body and test the mind. Only by pushing through the pain and fatigue can the spirit be forged. This philosophy is exemplified in the story of Toshimitsu Takamiya , a young kendo practitioner with only one arm. After losing his limb in an accident as a child, Takamiya trained relentlessly, developing a unique grip and strike technique that led him to victory in major tournaments. His story is a testament to the fact that in kendo, the true opponent is not the person in front of you — it’s the weakness within. Kendo Around the World Although deeply rooted in Japanese culture, kendo is now practised in more than 60 countries worldwide. The World Kendo Championships , first held in 1970, have grown into an international gathering of spirited athletes. Countries like France, South Korea, and the United States have seen explosive growth in kendo clubs and federations. Workshops in places like Thailand and Brazil now welcome hundreds of children and adults. For many of them, kendo offers something beyond competition: a path to focus, respect, and emotional strength. The Spiritual Essence of Kendo One of the most fascinating aspects of kendo is how it serves as a mirror for the practitioner’s soul. The kata , or pre-arranged forms practised with wooden swords, are not just technical drills — they are philosophical studies in precision, timing, and presence. Each movement is meant to embody the mindset of life-or-death combat, even in peaceful times. One famous master, Masaji Tōyama , put it this way: “At 50, I mastered the basics. At 60, I trained my spirit. At 70, I trained to remain still.” Stillness is one of kendo’s greatest lessons — to react not with rage, but with resolve. To never lose your spiritual balance, even in the heat of battle. Why Practice Kendo Today? In today’s fast-paced, digitally overloaded world, kendo offers something rare and precious: focus . In a kendo match, there is no time for distraction. Every breath, every footstep, every shout ( kiai ) must be full of intent. Young practitioners learn discipline. Adults find clarity. Seniors maintain physical and mental health. And everyone, regardless of skill level, works on refining their spirit. More than a sport, more than a tradition — Kendo: the way of the sword — is a lifelong pursuit of self-mastery. Final Thoughts: Carrying the Sword Forward At Tanuki Stories , we believe that understanding the heart of Japan means connecting with its traditions. Kendo is one such bridge between the past and the present, body and mind, the self and the sword. If you're planning a trip to Japan, why not witness a kendo practice in a local dojo? Or better yet, take up a shinai yourself and feel the echo of the samurai spirit in your own hands. Join one of our guided tours to explore Japan's living traditions up close — from the quiet shrines of Kyoto to the echoes of swords in Osaka’s dojos. The way of the sword is waiting. Will you answer the call?

  • The Power of Cuteness: Exploring Japan’s Kawaii Culture

    Japan’s streets are filled with mascots, pastel colors, plush toys, and characters with sparkling eyes and button noses. But kawaii culture is more than just a love for the adorable — it’s a powerful, multifaceted cultural phenomenon that reflects Japan’s social values, emotional expressions, and even coping mechanisms. From fashion and food to art and technology, kawaii is everywhere — and its global influence continues to grow. But where did kawaii culture come from? Why does it resonate so deeply in Japan and beyond? Let’s take a closer look. JAPAN KAWAII CULTURE The Origins of Kawaii Culture The word kawaii (可愛い) originally meant “pitiful” or “lovable,” but its meaning evolved in modern times to signify something cute, charming, and adorable. While the concept of cuteness can be traced back to traditional Japanese art and literature, kawaii as a cultural movement began to gain traction in the 1970s. This was a time of rapid economic growth in postwar Japan. Amid the country’s transformation into a global industrial power, a quiet revolution was occurring among its youth, especially teenage girls. They began to use a distinctive handwriting style called burikko ji , characterised by rounded letters, hearts, stars, and cartoon-like embellishments. Though schools tried to ban this writing, it quickly became a national trend. It was around this same time that Sanrio introduced a small white cat named Hello Kitty. With no mouth and a blank expression, Hello Kitty could be projected upon by anyone. She became the first kawaii icon and remains a symbol of the culture today. Kawaii in Fashion: Playful Rebellion Kawaii culture blossomed further in the world of fashion , especially in Harajuku, Tokyo’s youthful and creative fashion district. From the 1980s onward, designers and youth created entire subcultures based around cuteness. Styles like Lolita fashion , with its Victorian-inspired dresses and parasols, and fairy kei , with pastel palettes and 80s toy accessories, became expressions of individuality and rebellion. Kawaii fashion challenged the conformity of Japanese society by celebrating innocence and escapism. Rather than aiming to look mature or sexy, kawaii fashion celebrates childlike wonder and self-expression. It creates a safe, playful space where people can be whoever they want, even if that means wearing cat ears and glittery shoes. Kawaii on the Plate: Cute Cuisine Cuteness in Japan isn’t limited to appearances — it’s part of the dining experience too. Food is a major arena for kawaii culture. From bento boxes decorated like panda faces to latte art shaped like bears and 3D cartoon characters, Japanese food often brings a smile before the first bite. These edible works of art are called kyaraben (character bento), and they reflect the Japanese belief that presentation is as important as taste. Even convenience stores sell cakes shaped like animals, and some cafes are entirely themed around cuteness, like the famous Pompompurin Café or Gudetama Café , which serve dishes that look too adorable to eat. This visual joy is part of the charm. Kawaii food creates an emotional connection, turning a simple meal into an experience of comfort and whimsy. Kawaii in Technology and Daily Life As Japan embraced the digital age, kawaii culture followed — and flourished. Technology is often designed with user-friendliness in mind, but in Japan, it’s also designed to delight . Flip phones of the early 2000s came in pink, mint, and lilac shades. Tamagotchi digital pets became global hits. Even today, LINE’s messaging app features adorable stickers of its characters like Brown the bear and Cony the bunny, giving digital communication a warm, emotional layer. Modern robotics companies like Groove X, creator of the Lovot , design robots that mimic the behaviour of pets and babies, activating our instinct to nurture. Lovot isn’t meant to help with chores — its job is simply to be lovable. That’s kawaii in action. In everyday life, local governments use kawaii mascots to promote tourism and safety campaigns. Police stations have cute characters on their signage. Even construction zones feature cartoon animals on roadblock signs. These designs soften serious or stressful situations, making them more approachable and human. The Psychology Behind Kawaii But why is kawaii culture so appealing? Psychologists suggest that kawaii triggers an emotional response known as “cute aggression” — the overwhelming urge to squeeze, cuddle, or protect something adorable. This response is tied to our instinct to care for babies or vulnerable beings. In Japan, where societal pressures and rigid expectations can feel intense, kawaii offers a form of emotional escapism . It’s a safe space — a non-confrontational world of innocence, optimism, and comfort. For many, kawaii represents a return to simpler times, a refuge from adulthood, and a celebration of joy. It’s not just a style — it’s a mindset. Kawaii Goes Global Kawaii culture may have started in Japan, but it didn’t stay there. From New York to Milan, Paris to Seoul, Japanese cuteness has found eager fans around the world. Major collaborations — like Hello Kitty x Puma , Pokémon x McDonald’s , or UNIQLO x anime franchises — have brought kawaii to global fashion and pop culture. Social media has only accelerated its spread. Platforms like Instagram and TikTok are filled with kawaii-themed influencers, cafes, and beauty products. Kawaii has become a powerful soft power tool for Japan, strengthening its global identity through emotion and charm. Even luxury brands like Dior and Gucci have embraced kawaii elements, showing how far-reaching and adaptable this cultural phenomenon has become. The Future of Kawaii Culture Kawaii culture is not static. It evolves with technology, design, and social values. In recent years, we’ve seen the rise of “yami kawaii” — a darker, more melancholic take on cuteness that expresses mental health struggles and vulnerability. This shows how kawaii is becoming a more complex language for emotion. With the development of virtual influencers, AI-driven characters, and metaverse spaces, kawaii is also entering the digital frontier. Virtual idols like Hatsune Miku and AI mascots like Imma continue the kawaii tradition in new forms. As long as people seek joy, connection, and comfort, kawaii culture will remain a relevant — and irresistible — force. Conclusion: The Deep Meaning of Cuteness Kawaii culture may look soft and fluffy on the surface, but its impact runs deep. It reflects the Japanese ability to find beauty in small moments, to value innocence in a complex world, and to express emotion without words. More than just a trend, kawaii is a cultural philosophy — one that celebrates kindness, warmth, and the power of being gentle in a world that often demands toughness. So the next time you see a bunny-shaped rice ball or a plush keychain, don’t just smile and walk on. Take a moment to appreciate the deep cultural roots behind that cuteness. And if you're ready to experience kawaii culture firsthand — from Harajuku fashion streets to themed cafes and character shrines — join me on a guided tour across Japan. Because nothing beats discovering the world of kawaii with someone who knows where to find the magic.

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